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Racy Rieslings
The versatile German grape is worth another look
by Ben Madeska
Get some wine pros together, maybe give them a glass or two of wine, and eventually you'll hear the same refrain: They all love Riesling but can never get their customers to drink it. With styles ranging from bone-dry to luxuriously sweet, Riesling is arguably the noblest and most versatile white wine, but we still associate it with the sickly sweet plonk foisted on the American market over the years. At its best, however, no other wine can match the delicate balance of sugar and acidity that Riesling achieves in the vineyards of Germany. People: The tide is turning. It's time to embrace Riesling.
Studert-Prüm Maximiner Cabinet Riesling Sekt Trocken 2004 – Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
Sekt being the German term for sparkling wine, this is a tasty mix of Champagne and Riesling. A secondary fermentation in the bottle, the traditional method of Champagne, gives this wine a richness and delicacy not usually found at this price. Crisp apple and pear aromas persist through the palate with biscuity, nutty flavors, and a lean acidity plays against the creamy mouthfeel. This well-made, dry (trocken is German for dry) wine is sure to please Champagne and Riesling enthusiasts alike. Drink it whenever you'd normally drink Champagne (so, when you're happy or sad, definitely with company and when alone too, if you're thirsty). Available at Sam's Wines & Spirits (1720 N. Marcey, 312-664-4394); $12.99.
Friedrich-Wilhelm-Gymnasium Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 2005 – Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
German labels tell you everything you need to know about the wine -- if you can just decipher the damn things. Let's break this one down together: Friedrich-Wilhelm-Gymnasium is the producer (established in 1561), Graacher Himmelreich is the vineyard (a fine one), Kabinett refers to the ripeness of the grapes, and it comes from the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer region. As a typical Mosel Kabinett, there are honeyed fruits, flavors of lemon and lime, and floral notes on the nose. Fresh citrus and stonefruits fill the mouth with some slatey minerality. There's sweetness here, but it's refreshing. Enjoyable on its own as an aperitif, Kabinetts are also great food wines, so drink this with some Thai. Available at Binny's Beverage Depot (213 W. Grand, 312-332-0012); $13.99.
Franz-Joseph Schwibinger Niersteiner Ölberg Riesling Spätlese 2001 – Rheinhessen
Spätlese is the ripeness level after Kabinett, so the wines tend to be bigger and sweeter. This one is rich and complex -- peach nectar, flowers, honeycomb, orange marmalade and caramel combine in the bouquet, all continuing along the palate with a fruity sweetness and, of course, juicy acid. It's clean, pure and fresh. Vibrant and delicious. Dangerously drinkable. Note the 2001 vintage -- German Riesling can age remarkably well, unlike many other whites. Try it with a good, hearty helping of German bratwurst. Available at Fine Wine Brokers (4621 N. Lincoln, 773-989-8166); $24.95.
Rudolf Müller Eiswein 2004 - Rheinhessen
True Eiswein is made by letting the grapes hang on the vines long into winter and pressing them once frozen. This concentrates the sugars, flavors and acids, making some of the greatest dessert wines in the world. The 2004 Müller Eiswein smells of rich honey, peaches, lychee and candied ginger with a tingly finish of lemon juice (and more honey). It's thick and coats the mouth but is not cloying in the least. As with all dessert wines, don't pair it with anything too sweet, as that will make the wine's acid too prominent. Have it with a slice of pound cake and fresh fruit -- or even better, drink it as your dessert. Available at Que Syrah (3726 N. Southport, 773-871-8888); $21.95 for 375 ml.
This is a sampling from the section in the current magazine - to read it all, download a PDF or pick up a hard copy of UR Chicago
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